Saturday, August 9, 2008

D is for Deconstruction



Deconstructionist fashion has roots in the post-modern architecture of masters such as Bernard Tschumi, Peter Eisenman, Zaha Hadid, Coop Himmelblau, and Frank Gehry, whose Ray and Maria Stata Center is pictured above courtesy architecture.about.com.
Like the seemingly crumbling, warped, or inside-out buildings that inspired them,
deconstructed clothes are meant to be discomforting, even jarring, to behold.
So if you are saying “yuck” when you look at the images that follow, perhaps that was the designer’s intent!
The genesis: last season’s Marc Jacobs deconstructed runway look (above left, via teenvogue.com) and its editorial interpretation in Vogue.
Fall 2008 Runway looks:
Alexander Wang;
this and next image via nymag.com
Ann-Sofie Back disintegrating aqua skirt
Calvin Klein torn shearling jacket;
this and next two pictures courtesy style.com
Raw edges and upside-dwon pleats at Chanel Couture
Deconstructed ruffles at Threeasfour
The Master of Fashion Deconstructivism:
Issey Miyake,
pieced yellow dress
and "detached" pants and sleeves, courtesy elle.com
Comme de Garcons cutout blazer,
via nymag.com
Junya Watanabe deconstructed jacket

Note: this and next two pictures via style.com
Maison Martin Margiela mismatched sleeves and “torn-look” hosiery
Rodarte torn tights and sweater
Wunderkind raw edged patchwork dress; this and next two photos via nymag.com
Stapled dress at Salvatore Ferragamo
Torn dress at Marios Schwab
More evidence of the deconstructivist intent?
Exposed stitching, at
Anna Sui
Comme de Garçons
Sophia Kokosalaki
And Viktor & Rolf
Of course, edgy and potentially unwearable runway looks are toned down significantly (and oft eliminated) before they hit the mass market!
In the shops right now:
At left: Peter Som Prince of Wales skirt, at eLuxury.com
The Lake & Stars Genius camisole, pictured at right and available at shopbop.com

Peter Som boucle pleated skirt; photo via elle.com
Maison Martin Margiela slash blazer.
Go to eLuxury.com
Issey Miyake frayed edge Fete dress.
Visit yoox.com.
Thakoon breakaway dress with patchwork tweed and exposed tulle interlining.
Visit the Designer Boutique shopbop.com.
Pierre Hardy leather cutout boot;
photo via style.com
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So if your nails are chipped [the intentionally destroyed manicure is actually a fashion trend; photo below via The New York Times!], your slip is showing, or your fishnets are torn, not to worry! Just tell people you’re a deconstructivist!

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